“He who has a reason to live can bear almost any how.”
― Friedrich Nietzsche
I was in my first year of my MBA at IIM Kashipur. From Kashipur, on a clear day, I could catch glimpses of the snow-capped mountains in the distance. I longed to travel up there but lacked the courage, always caught up in the uncertainties of life. However, fate took an unexpected turn, compelling me to rethink my life and the choices I had made so far. One day, while watching YouTube, I stumbled upon a documentary called Walking Down the Himalayas. The anchor started from Pakistan, crossed into India, walked the length of Nepal, and reached Bhutan, where the Himalayas finally plateaued.
Inspired, I started planning my own Himalayan trek. I envisioned beginning from Banbasa, Uttarakhand, traversing Nepal cross-sectionally, and entering Bhutan. A trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) was a small detour that I planned with friends who were excited about the journey. It was the final semester, and I started packing my bags with all the essentials. I connected with many friends at college; several showed interest, but only four promised to join the trek.
The Journey Begins
We left Kashipur at 8 AM and reached the Rudrapur bus depot in about an hour. From there, we took another bus to Banbasa, arriving late at night. The border crossing gates were closed, so we waited until the first light of dawn. Once the gates opened, we crossed into Nepal on a horse cart while our bags were thoroughly checked. From the Nepal border, we boarded a bus to Pokhara.
Nepali buses are incredibly small, making me feel like I was riding in a toy bus meant for kids. My back ached from sitting uncomfortably for so long. By the time we reached Pokhara, it was already night, so we booked a hotel and rested. The next morning, we visited the Pokhara Permit Office. It was March 2017, and the permit fee ranged between 400-700 NPR per person. After securing our permits, we explored the local market and bought a tent, hoping to save money by camping and honing our outdoor skills. We then left for Phedi, the starting point of our trek.
Into the Himalayas
We were a group of four, all reasonably fit. As we began our ascent, the steep climb quickly made us realize the challenge ahead. We were out of breath but determined to push forward. Passing through fields and villages, we greeted the locals, who were busy with their daily lives. By evening, we reached Dhampus, our first stop. Exhausted, we checked into a hotel and asked the staff if we could pitch our tent. Seeing our enthusiasm, they agreed. However, setting up a tent in the dark, unfamiliar surroundings proved to be a challenge. Our biggest concern? Fitting four people into a 2+1 Decathlon tent. Eventually, we managed to set it up, zipped it shut, and headed for dinner.
We treated ourselves to good food and drinks, played cards until late, and finally went to bed. The next morning, I woke up early to a breathtaking sight—the majestic Annapurna and Machhapuchhre peaks in the distance. I called my friends to witness the view, and we all wondered how we would ever make it up there.
The Reality of Trekking
Upon reviewing our budget, I realized I had slightly underestimated our expenses. The previous night’s splurge on food had not helped. I conveyed the situation to the group, and we agreed to a new plan: we would eat only Dal-Bhat, skip breakfast, and bargain hard for accommodations to save money.
We left for Ghandruk, navigating ever-changing trail conditions. Sometimes it was hot, other times cold and windy. By evening, we reached Ghandruk and began bargaining for a place to stay. One hotel’s price was slightly above our budget, leaving us with little for food. I tried offering a check from an Indian national bank, which the owner declined. Then I attempted pawning off my belongings, eventually managing to sell a t-shirt to cover part of the cost.
Unexpected Challenges
The next morning, we left for Chomrong. Along the way, a Canadian trekker joined us. Upon learning we were all in banking and finance, we had some engaging conversations. We stopped for lunch at one of the many guesthouses dotting the trail. Nepal is a backpacker’s paradise, with friendly people and comfortable stops along the way.
During lunch, I checked my emails and saw an urgent one that raised my worries—a job offer that needed my confirmation within two days, or it would be revoked. Being in the remote Himalayas, I panicked. Locals advised me to visit the forest office, where I might find help. The officer was incredibly kind; he went home, retrieved a printer and scanner, printed my document, and helped me send my acceptance. When I offered him money in gratitude, he refused.
That afternoon, we finally reached Chomrong. We checked into the first available hotel, took much-needed baths, and ate our humble Dal-Bhat. That night, in the warmth of the common dining room, we exchanged stories with fellow trekkers while huddling near the central chimney.
Higher into the Mountains
The next morning, I decided to lighten my load. Since we were consistently staying in guesthouses, I left behind my tent, sleeping bag, and a few unnecessary items. Feeling much lighter, we set off for Bamboo, where conditions grew colder and icier.
Just before Bamboo, two of my friends decided to turn back; they were not properly equipped and struggled with frequent pit stops, delaying our progress. We huddled together, shared some cash, and bid them farewell. Now, it was just Aditya and me.
That evening, it snowed and rained heavily. At the lodge, I had my first experience of altitude sickness—a throbbing headache. The next morning, we pressed on to Deurali, our last stop before ABC. The trail was now covered in 1-2 feet of snow, making walking increasingly difficult. My Woodland shoes, which I assumed were sufficient, were soaking wet and offered little grip. I kept slipping and falling.
The Blizzard and the Final Push
By afternoon, the weather turned worse. A blizzard set in, reducing visibility to near zero. Aditya, who had been leading, lost his energy and asked me to take the lead. I knew from my research that in such conditions, every step had to be taken cautiously. One wrong move could mean falling into a deep crevasse. I used my trekking pole to check for solid ground before stepping forward. Despite all precautions, I miscalculated one step and fell into a crevasse. Luckily, it was shallow, and I managed to climb out with just a bruised foot.
Finally, we reached a lodge in Deurali, where fellow trekkers welcomed us with tea. That evening, in the warmth of the dining area, we played cards and momentarily forgot our troubles.
The next morning, Aditya dragged me outside for a once-in-a-lifetime view. We stared in awe before setting off for ABC, our final milestone.
Snow was now waist-deep, but we pushed forward, slipping and falling countless times. After five exhausting hours, we finally arrived at ABC, greeted by the signboard: Welcome to Annapurna Base Camp.
We stayed for a couple of hours, soaking in the moment. Helicopters buzzed overhead, rescuing trekkers in distress. The place was bustling with people celebrating their achievement.
The Journey Back
With our goal achieved, we set an ambitious target for the return journey. Practically running down the trail, we reached Chomrong by 7 PM, utterly exhausted. To our surprise, our two friends had sold the tent and left us some cash. We treated ourselves to a lavish meal to celebrate.
The next day, we left for Pokhara. By evening, we parted ways. Aditya returned for our convocation, while I continued my journey to Kathmandu, eager for more adventures ahead.
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