I had been planning for this summit for more than a year. Stok Kangri, standing at 6,040 meters, would be my first summit attempt. It all began in January 2019 when a thought crossed my mind: I had done so many treks, but never a summit. My inner voice kept nudging me, saying, "Kabhi toh upar dekho. Hamesha pahad ke niche se aate ho. Try climbing to the top instead of just wandering at the bottom and coming back." And so began my quest.
I dove headfirst into preparations, reading books like Into Thin Air and Mountains of the Mind, and watching countless YouTube videos of climbing experts. Although Stok Kangri required only limited climbing expertise, I knew I had to be physically ready. I focused on improving my cardio health, running 3 km in under 9 minutes, and even got my blood work done. My doctor gave me the green light, so I booked my flights from Bangalore to Delhi and then from Delhi to Leh. I also coordinated with a local agency for guides and permits. With everything set, I eagerly waited for August 12, 2019. I was so excited that when my team was awarded the best innovative project in AI, I barely cared. All I could think about was the climb.
The day finally arrived. I double-checked my gear:
- Good climbing shoes
- Gaiters
- Climbing poles
- Two fleece jackets
- A down jacket (rated 0 to -5°C)
- Head cap
- Polarized goggles
- Woolen socks (2 pairs) and regular socks (2 pairs)
- A camera with a 75-200 mm lens and a 30 mm prime lens
- A borrowed GoPro
- A power bank
- Essential medications: Diamox, Paracetamol, Cetirizine, and ORS powder
- A few books
After packing my bag, I kissed my wife goodbye and set off for Leh. It was my first time visiting Leh, and nothing could have prepared me for the excitement. As we crossed Chandigarh, I noticed the other passengers buzzing about the view. Curious, I looked out of the plane window, and the sight took my breath away. A vast blue canvas stretched out below, with massive, jagged formations protruding skyward, each dusted in white snow. I thought to myself, "My God, how have I lived so long without witnessing this?"
After a while, the announcement for landing was made. Leh airport, managed by the Indian Army, had strict movement and photography restrictions. We landed under the vigilant watch of soldiers, and after collecting my bags, I headed to Leh city. One thing that stood out immediately was the frequent oxygen bars set up at the airport and throughout the city. It was a stark reminder that I was at 3,000 meters altitude and would need time to acclimatize. I reached my hotel, dropped off my bags, freshened up, and set out to explore.
Leh market is a small yet vibrant place, filled with stalls selling fresh fruits, clothes, and vegetables from all over Leh and Ladakh. It also boasts a string of restaurants offering a variety of cuisines. I found a local shop and ordered mutton thukpa—a thick, delicious broth that's light on the stomach. At high altitudes, digestion can be challenging, so it’s best to stick to soupy or boiled foods.
The trek day arrived. We all reported to the local climbing agency, where our guide briefed us on the trail and safety precautions. He took our SpO2 readings; mine was at 96%, which was reassuring since a well-acclimatized person should have a reading around 92-94%. Under any circumstances, it shouldn't drop below 82-86%. With all the formalities completed, we checked into a shared cottage. The next morning, we gathered and headed for Stok Village, the starting point of our journey.
At Stok Village, our guides busied themselves with headcounts, food inventory, tents, sleeping bags, and gear checks. Meanwhile, we introduced ourselves and got to know one another; after all, our group of 15 would be spending the next four to five days together.
As the journey began, my inexperience as a fellow trekker showed—I walked ahead of everyone else, a habit I would learn to correct after many treks. It was August, and the days were hot. The initial few kilometers were dusty and rocky. I crossed one pass, waited for the others, and then continued. In the mountains, it’s hard to get lost if it isn’t snowing.
We camped on the first day, ending our trek around 3:00 p.m. After resting and having some tea and snacks, our guide Soham took us on an acclimatization trek, following the "trek high, sleep low" principle. While some people set up the kitchen and sleeping tents, chopping vegetables and preparing dinner, we hiked to the top of a nearby mountain, checking our oxygen levels along the way.
As the sun set, the stars illuminated the sky. It was a stunning sight, but the temperature dropped quickly. I zipped up my tent, snuggled into my sleeping bag, and fell asleep.
The next morning, I woke up at 6:00 a.m. and contemplated the toilet tent. I quickly decided against it, opting to climb a nearby peak to find a secluded spot instead. By 9:00 a.m., we set off for our next milestone. After two days of trekking, we reached the base camp on August 15th. It was raining and snowing, and we were all soaked. We changed into dry clothes and warmed up. In honor of Independence Day, we hoisted the Indian flag at base camp. As I wandered around, I collected small pieces of the unique flora, hoping to keep a bit of the high Himalayas in my little Bangalore garden.
We continued our acclimatization climbs to the adventure camp. The wind picked up soon after we started, eventually turning into a blizzard. I could see a world frozen in ice, devoid of life except for determined climbers. I tried to take some photos, but the cold was too intense, and carrying my heavy camera seemed impractical. I knew I had to shed unnecessary weight.
That night, as I tried to sleep, I heard the clinking of bells, the crunch of boots, and hushed voices. I peered outside and saw a group setting off for the summit around 9:00 p.m. At such high altitudes (around 5,000 meters), I could hear my heartbeat, and breathing felt a bit more laborious. I was wrapped in layers, feeling uncomfortable, but eventually, I managed to fall asleep.
The following night, it was our turn to attempt the summit. We started around 9:30 p.m., all geared up and lined up one behind the other. It was a full moon, and while we had our headlamps on, the moonlight reflecting off the snow lit up the entire mountain. We reached the foot of Stok Kangri, where a string of lights from climbers marked the path to the summit. It was a mesmerizing sight.
As I climbed higher, the steps became increasingly difficult. Six hours had passed since we left the base, and we had reached an altitude of 5,500 meters. I was just 200 meters—about two hours—from the summit when I felt a tingling sensation in my feet. I stopped to check and found that my shoe had torn, allowing cold ice to seep in. Memories of frostbite and gangrene flashed through my mind, but I pushed on for another half an hour. The tingling intensified, and I knew I had to turn back. It was a tough decision, having come so close. Another climber joined me, and together we began the long walk back to base, dejected but safe.
We reached the base at 3:00 a.m., surrounded by endless snow and towering mountains. After a few hours, the rest of the team arrived. We rested for the day and then started our trek back to Stok Village. It was surprising how a journey that took three days to reach could be retraced in just half a day.
Looking back on my summit attempt, I realized it was a great experience overall. I learned a lot about myself, my limits, and the mountains. While I didn’t reach the top, the journey itself was a summit of its own.